Inta Balodes Voyage into the Wilderness. PART IV b.
What did I see and feel in Ainaži?
“Finnish artist, London based Janina Rajakangas together with Neil Callaghan, Said Dakash, Disa Krosness and Janne Aspvik are staying in Ainaži, in Northern Latvia, next to the Estonian border. Once a busy port and birth place of Latvian seafarers, Ainaži is now a small peaceful coastal town, also known for its protected area of sea meadows. The artists will live and work in Ainaži for three weeks..” This time I will go and check out.
I have been to Ainaži many times, more precisely I have passed by on the highway and stopped at the gas station and at Hesburger many times, but I think I have only once done any sightseeing there. I know the Ainaži Wilderness hosts. Solveiga Muciņa is the director of the culture house and also the leader of the local folk dance group. Roberts Muciņš is her son; he started in folk dancing, did serious ballroom dancing and is still teaching it, but he also has a degree in contemporary dance. Mainly because of this, there has already been several contemporary dance performances in Ainaži. Solveiga and Roberts are planning to continue to work on developing Ainaži as a residency place for contemporary dance artists. Ainaži is a very small town and even if it is close to the busy highway going to Tallinn, once you step off the main road, things change.
Ainaži method and story
I will try to see things with local eyes rather than with the eyes of an outsider. I will try to get in to the Wilderness feeling. I will try to find out what the difference is between a regular dance event and a Wilderness dance event?
I visited Ainaži three times. The first time I just took off and went there. I looked around, looked into the culture house where I knew that the residency took place, it was open and empty. Then I called Solveiga, she was having lunch in Hesburger, so I went there and talked to her. It turned out that the artists had a day off. Presumeably their only day off during the residency. So I respected it.
For the second time I went for something more precise. Roberts had told me that the artists would have a very informal showing for Janina’s parents who would be coming from Finland. He said that I could also come. I don’t know if he warned the artists that there would be somebody coming from the outside, somebody who writes about dance. I think he didn’t. Anyway, I went there and the artists let me in, allowed to watch the rehearsal. I had arrived early on purpose hoping this would happen and this time I by the way, went by motorbike, thinking that it would make me a little bit wilder. I never imagined that Jurgita would come on a much smaller motorbike all the way from Bebrene! So she deprived me for a large part of my wilderness self image. I saw the rehearsal and stayed for the showing, and got involved in a post-showing discussion with the artists, and Roberts served me and the artists some incredibly tasty local fish, smoked two hours! I also visited Solveiga and Roberts in their home, we chatted about dance and they fed me tasty blood sausages with lingonberry jam.
So, of course, having experienced all that, I went there for the third time (not only because of the food but also because of the nice hours I spent with the artists and Roberts). It was the day of the showing. Unfortunately on that day nobody was smoking fish but still I don’t regret that I wwnt there again. The artists remembered me, they said hello and smiled, and everybody looked slightly stressed before the show. The local people kept coming and coming – young ones, old ones, men and women, children, latecomers crossing the space, latecomers finding the side door, people who really don’t know how to make their mobile phones silent and the pensioners’ union who made a nice cake for the artists. Really tasty, I had two pieces! Everybody stayed for the full showing, people were really watching. There was some text in English but Roberts was translating, so everything was clear for everybody. After the performance some ladies told the artists what they saw in the performance. I also told again how it was for me. As my Honda was parked next to Jurgita’s Vespa we went out together and had a girl’s talk about motorbikes. I said I couldn’t imagine her riding here all the way! It could only happen in the Wilderness.
Ainaži Wilderness essential things
I was asking myself again - what is the difference between a regular dance event and a Wilderness dance event?
From the audience point of view - I would say a clean slate (or a “before contemporary”) perception because the local audience members have not been taught how to talk about contemporary dance, how to react to what they see, how to recognize certain things. So there are moments which actually are part of the performance but to the audience looks as “performance hasn’t started yet”, there are applauses in between scenes which would not happen in a city venue, and in the local press this kind of arts event is labelled “for youth”. Even if it is obvious that the artists are not that young the local journalists probably couldn’t believe that this could be something adults would be doing.
From the artists’ point of view, I would say that a residency stay provides a peaceful surprise and an unusual distance to everyday city life, -the possibility to emerge oneself into the here and now. An opportunity to lead a “normal life”, i.e., work for eight hours and then go home and cook, and spend time with friends and family - instead of the hectic lives of most artists – teaching, performing, choreographing, occasionally making some money, working odd jobs etc. Also when staying in the residency location, letting the local space, time and people flow into the system, the whole process changes and even the perception of ones own art is altered when partially perceived in the context of the local situation.
The first visit – bits of info about the artists
- The artists are working with lot of responsibility; they almost don’t get out of the studio.<
- The artists´ meeting with the local pensioners’ union took place. They interviewed the pensioners about the themes they were working on – LOVE, WORK, HOME, CHILDREN.<
- The other day Solveiga and Roberts were teaching the artists some Latvian folk dance steps.<
Talking to the hosts, watching rehearsals, the informal showing and talking to the artists
Solveiga tells how much she liked this year’s Song and Dance festival, particularly “the old good choreographies”. She will do everything to find a way to go again to the next one which is in five years. If not leading the dance group then at least singing in the choir.
Solveiga says that contemporary dance is more about real life than folk or any other dance, it is perceived very individually – some adore the performance, some will not be able to even watch it. And it is not because of professional experience or education, or being ready to see it. It is about life.
Robert, will you use me as a dancer in your diploma work?! But Mom, this will be a contemporary dance work. Yes, yes, I know!
The artists say they came with the themes only – HOME, WORK, CHILDREN, LOVE - they fit very well, they like them, they haven´t changed during the process.
Janina: Everything starts here on the spot; the location starts to influence the work.
Disa: Ainaži is peaceful, accepting, slow, kind…
Neil: We are becoming locals; we see the same faces every day; even if we cannot talk, there is still recognition. That seems even more important than going and getting involved into active conversations.
Disa: It is clear that this kind of work wouldn’t be created in other place. The place influences us to submerge ourselves, in a deep introspective way.
They ask me how the folk dance material looks. I say it relates nicely to the recent Dance festival and doesn’t look like they are making fun out of it. They say they definitely wouldn´t want that. Now I’m thinking that the folkish part reminds me both of Solveiga’s classes and also of Nijinsky’s L'Après-midi d'un Faune.
They have never been to a post-soviet country before; and they are working together in a group like this for the first time. Janne: The experience of being here demystifies Latvia, because it turns out that it is much closer to Finland than I thought before.
Everybody is telling that during the meeting with pensioners they understood how different the situation is – in soviet times they couldn’t go anywhere, but know all the children are away, working abroad and the town is almost empty. There is no middle generation in the city – only old people and children.
Everybody says Ainaži Wilderness is a special experience, it is so great, there are so good conditions, no disturbances, they live 50 m from their working place, there are no other jobs, no stress, no obstacles.
Together with many people watching and talking and eating again
I wanted to get off the highway, so I did and ended up pushing my motorbike across a dried out river somewhere half way to Ainaži, there was only a tiny path across the edge of the dune. It was beautiful! Just 10 minutes off the busy highway. But things take longer here. I’m lucky I didn’t miss the beginning of the show!
I park my red Honda next to a red Vespa. I am wondering whose it is? Some of you know that it belongs to Bebrene Wilderness host Jurgita. She spent 9 hours riding to Ainaži - only because of Wilderness.
I’m watching and thinking about the way the work is built – it is unusually accessible compared to many other dance works - the movements, the costumes, the text (with translation), the characters and the music – comprehensible - adequate for the venue and audience, and context. Who I am to decide that? Still I’m thinking whether it is done on purpose to make a smoother entrance for dance into new locations? Or it is because of the themes – HOME, WORK, CHILDREN, LOVE –very clear but with never-ending questions tied to them.
After the show the artists invite us backstage to drink coffee and tea, eat cookies and the big pretzel with nuts, dried fruit, raisins (gift from pensioner’s union).
I say the work seems very sad and melancholic for me – about the times lost, about bygone youth, about the old photos fading, about nobody coming to dance-parties in this culture house, except resident artists.
The artists say that they should be careful with getting too melancholic when working further. It is still in process. It still feels unclear to them. It will be interesting to see how it develops.
The head of the pensioner’s union says that Disa’s solo in the beginning of the performance made her think of the foreign seagull who have landed in a foreign land and is little afraid, showing of a bit, trying to become loved by the locals.
Read the other parts of Inta Balodes Voyage into the Wilderness.
PART I. How I Imagine Wilderness
PART II. The Wilderness believes
PART III. Portrait of a Wilderness host
PART IV a. What people say about Bebrene/Dviete Wilderness dance
PART V. Conclusions based on my Bebrene and Ainaži experiences